Tuesday, July 31, 2012

Retire Here, Not There: Montana

Peek into the typical Montana resident's home and you're likely to find three things: hiking boots, skis and fishing poles. Dubbed the Treasure State for its majestic mountain ranges, famous parks, crystal clear rivers and lakes, Montana is a haven for the adventure-seeking retiree. Residents routinely visit the world-famous Yellowstone and Glacier National Parks, ski at one of the many unpretentious and relatively uncrowded peaks such as Bridger Bowl and Big Mountain, or fly-fish in the great Bitterroot or Yellowstone Rivers. "The scenery and lifestyle here are a huge draw," says Bill Beecher, a financial planner at Beecher Financial Planning in Great Falls, Mont.

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Montana is also affordable. The cost of living is just below the national average and there is no sales tax. Residents have a decidedly frontiersman spirit and are fiercely protective of the state's natural resources. Posh ski resorts and massive developments are few and far between in the state. When a Las Vegas developer sought to trademark "The Last Best Place" phrase for his high-end Missoula ranch in 2002, residents appealed to their state representatives to stop him. The phrase had long been used to describe the fact that Montana's sprawling beauty is relatively unspoiled by development. State legislators denied the developer use of the phrase, and what's more, a Department of Commerce appropriations bill now forbids anyone from registering a trademark for it. Although the state sometimes gets a rap as being a little off the beaten track, there is "a big sense of community," says Beecher.

There are challenges to living in a vast state so close to the Canadian border. For one, it's cold. The joke often goes there are two seasons here: winter and August. And many areas are remote, especially in the northeastern part of the state. The state is home to just over a million residents, while huge swaths of land are populated only by herds of elk, deer and other wildlife. Property taxes can be high to make up for lost revenue from the lack of sales tax, says Beecher. And, though it's known as a haven for quality affordable skiing, it's certainly not devoid of pricey ski towns. Big Sky -- known as the "Vail of Montana" -- also attracts retirees. But residents of this pricey resort town face a cost of living that's 40% above the national average and a median home price upwards of $400,000.

But Big Sky is the exception not the rule in the Treasure State. The following four towns offer access to world-class skiing and other outdoor activities as well as old west charm on a budget that's significantly smaller than in Big Sky.

Bozeman: For the brainiac skier

The first thing Bozeman has going for it: It's proximity to Yellowstone, only 90 miles to the South. (In sparse Montana, 90 miles is considered "down the road.") But there are many other, more local charms. The town, which sits in the Gallatin Valley, is surrounded on all sides with majestic mountains. Within 45 minutes of town, residents have their choice of three excellent ski areas -- Big Sky, Bridger Bowl and Moonlight Basin. Plus, the mountain areas near Bozeman have vast public lands that are great for hiking and mountain biking. The Gallatin and Yellowstone Rivers, both less than a half hour from downtown, are a fisherman's paradise.

By the numbers
  • Population: 39,764
  • Median home cost: $272,400
  • Cost of living: 19% higher than average
  • Unemployment: 6.5%
  • Source: Sperling's Best Places

It's not all cowboys and fisherman in Bozeman. An intellectual community thrives there too. The town is home to Montana State University and a growing tech industry (including software company RightNow Technologies, which was recently acquired by Oracle for $1.5 billion). The community-minded retiree won't be disappointed either. Bozeman was voted an "All American City" by the National Civic League, an award that recognizes outstanding civic accomplishments. Plus, there are dozens of meet-up groups in town, many centered around, not surprisingly, outdoor pursuits, says Bozeman resident Mike Harrelson, a public relations consultant for the state tourism office. The town also has an airport and several hospitals.

All these qualities help explain why Bozeman is one of the fastest-growing areas in the state. In just 40 years it went from a sleepy cowboy town to a vibrant tech-hub. Growth, of course, has its downsides. Residents complain about rapidly rising housing prices (some even jokingly call Bozeman "Boz Angeles") and the loss of the town's Old West character. Where once you found just a smattering of saloon-like bars and low-key restaurants, you now have western-chic boutiques, spas and trendy coffee shops.

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Big Sky ski resort

Whitefish: For the rugged small-town lover

Glance up at one of the slopes on Whitefish Mountain Resort on any given morning and who do you see coming down? Not a bunch of limber twenty-something skiers, but rather, the 50-plus crowd. "There are a ton of older skiers here," says Lisa Jones, public relations manager for the Whitefish Convention & Visitor's Bureau. To them, skiing isn't just a pastime: Older residents often land the top spots on the "vertical" list, which means they achieve the highest elevation each year. The more you go up the mountain to ski and the higher the runs you choose, the more likely you are to make the list, Jones explains.

By the numbers
  • Population: 5,510
  • Median home cost: $274,200
  • Cost of living: 15% higher than average
  • Unemployment: 13.1%
  • Source: Sperling's Best Places

These retirees, like most Whitefish residents, take the town's saying -- "success here is measured in terms of how many mountains one has climbed, runs skied or fish caught" -- to heart. Located in the northern Rockies, Whitefish is just 25 miles from Glacier National Park, a million-plus acre park carved out by glaciers centuries ago, which offers more than 700 miles of hiking trails, 760 lakes, hundreds of alpine meadows and even a few remaining glaciers. Retirees also enjoy both hiking and skiing at the 3,000-acre Whitefish Mountain Resort, which is the second largest ski area in the state. The resort offers some of the best tree-skiing -- or skiing off the groomed slopes -- in the U.S. However, despite the size of the resort, its remote location and challenging weather (storm systems often reduce visibility to near zero, and "ice rimes," a coating of ice that forms when cold water freezes upon impact with the trees, are common) keep it from being overly crowded.

While the town proudly boasts that "wildlife outnumbers residents," two-legged inhabitants will find plenty to do off the slopes. The town centers around a single main street, Central Avenue, which is dotted with about two-dozen high-quality, locally owned restaurants, coffee shops, clothing stores and a notable absence of chains. Much of Whitefish's socializing revolves around outdoor activities making "it super easy to meet people," says Jones. Nearly everyone in town is a member of the Wave Aquatic and Fitness Center, the local athletic facility that offers everything from Silver Sneakers aerobics classes to Tai Chi, she says. There are also a lot of volunteer opportunities, including the popular Ambassador on the Mountain program, in which retirees serve as guides to help people navigate the Whitefish Mountain Resort. There is a hospital located in Whitefish, though to see a specialist, one may need to travel 15 miles in Kalispell, also, the location of a small airport.

Keep in mind that Whitefish is a resort town. Residents complain that it can feel overrun with tourists. Plus, it's not easy to find a job that doesn't revolve around tourism (the area faces 13.1% unemployment). On the flip side, tourists bring in money. The "resort tax" on restaurants, hotel rooms and other touristy items helps keep property taxes down for residents and the outdoor amenities in tip-top shape.

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Reynolds Mountain, Glacier National Park

Billings: For the Wild West lover

Admittedly, Billings isn't what you think of when you think quintessential Montana. It's not that close to great ski resorts (Red Lodge Mountain is a full hour away), chain stores abound and the oil refineries make the area less than pristine.

By the numbers
  • Population: 100,722
  • Median home cost: $158,900
  • Cost of living: Same as national than average
  • Unemployment: 5.6%
  • Source: Sperling's Best Places

Billings is the largest city in the state, but with a population of just 100,000 it's still a small town. What's more, it has an Old West feel thanks to its legacy as a classic American frontier town. When Lewis and Clark passed near Billings, William Clark etched his name into one of the area's characteristic sandstone cliffs. Calamity Jane, who shot up a bar here, has a street named after her. The wild west lives on in dozens of buildings in town that are on the National Register of Historic Places, including the 1909 Billings Depot, which housed three major railroad companies. The Yellowstone Art Museum preserves regional art and the Western Heritage Center features exhibits on homesteading and frontier settlement. But while this town embraces the past, it isn't stuck in it. There are more restaurants and shopping options here than in other cities in the state, although cowboy boots and Stetson hats are still plentiful. If you want to see big-name concerts, rodeos or other prominent events, Billings is the place to be. It also boasts a symphony, one of the major zoos in the state and a large performing arts center.

Dubbed "Montana's Trailhead" due to its connectivity to regional assets and opportunities, Billings is also a good place for retirees to work or start a business in the state, says John Brewer, president of the Billings Chamber of Commerce. Unemployment is only 5.6%, according to Sperling's Best Places -- significantly lower than the national average, thanks to the major oil reserves in the area, a thriving tourism business and other industries such as agriculture and health care. (Billings has an extensive hospital system that serves many neighboring areas) It's also the commerce hub for much of the surrounding area and is easily accessed by highway I-90 and the airport.

But Billings is still Montana. Despite the oil refineries, it's far from industrial here. The Heritage Trails System offers miles of hiking and the town was named one of "America's 50 Best Bicycling Towns" by Bicycling Magazine. The prairie offers quality hunting mostly for large game like elk. The Yellowstone River runs directly through town and there are plenty of lakes nearby. (Trout, catfish and bass fishing are particularly popular here.)

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Missoula: For the left-leaning fly-fisherman

Sometimes dubbed the "Left Bank of Montana," Missoula has "a progressive flair and is known for its artisans," says Harrelson. If you're a Birkenstock-wearing retiree who loves outdoor music festivals and throwing clay or blowing glass this may be the town for you.

By the numbers
  • Population: 68,216
  • Median home cost: $246,700
  • Cost of living: 14.2% higher than average
  • Unemployment: 7.5%
  • Source: Sperling's Best Places

Missoula calls itself the cultural center of Montana, and there's no doubt this town has plenty to offer in that department. The River City Roots Fest in August, a "celebration of all things Missoula" draws 10,000 people and features local and national music and art. The weekly free summer concert series Out to Lunch is another local favorite and there are a number of art galleries in town. There's also the Montana Lyric Opera, Western Montana's only professional non-profit opera company, and the well-respected Missoula Art Museum, which features exhibits by local artists as wells as classes, lectures and events. The University of Montana, which offers a lifelong learning program for people 50 and up, offers everything from lectures on "Cultural Arts in Vietnam's Villages" to poetry readings by prominent local poet Elizabeth Robinson.

The town has dozens of sports shops that cater to everything from fly-fishing to biking and skiing -- and these outdoor activities attract many retirees to the area, says Barbara Neilan, executive director of Destination Missoula. Sometimes called the "Hub of Five Valleys" the town is nestled amidst five mountain ranges and sits along the Clark and Bitterroot Rivers. Missoula was the setting for the classic Robert Redford film "A River Runs Through It," based on the story by Norman Maclean. Within minutes of town, there are four top-notch trout fisheries, where one can hook everything from rainbow to brown trout. From close-by peaks like Mt. Sentinel and Mt. Jumbo to neighboring recreation areas like Rattlesnake Recreation Area and the Lolo National Forest, the area offers endless trails filled with a variety of wildlife and birds. Because Missoula sits near the confluence of the Clark Fork, Blackfoot and Bitterroot Rivers, there are plenty of opportunities to take to the (often chilly) rapids.

As lovely as that may seem, the left-leaning culture may turn off some retirees, and the airport is small -- not the best jumping off point for the frequent traveler.

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Missoula Mercantile Building

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